September 2023. The weather forecast was showing mild rain for the upcoming days. It wasn’t a good choice of days for the trek, but then those were the free days available for me to do the trek. So, I took my chances.
Day 1– Saari to Deoria Taal
Saari is a quiet and peaceful village in the Himalayan foothills. One has to reach there passing via Rudraprayag and Ukhimath. It also happens to be the starting place for Trek to Deoria Taal. The trek is essentially a steep hike of about 2.5 km. When I started the trek, it was noon time, and I had a heavy backpack. When I started climbing, I started to feel the pain on my shoulders. I kept on climbing at a slow pace, but the legs felt increasingly heavier. I was regretting that I probably overpacked. I started using the trekking pole, it helped somewhat but still couldn’t put the pain off. Finally, I had an idea that worked. I divided my backpack weight into two using a smaller bag and hung the smaller bag in front. This provided me stability over the slope and also relieved my back by distributing the weight. Now, I could walk smoothly, although at a slow pace. With the climb, views kept on getting better. I also had a refreshing drink made of rhododendron flowers, at a shop run by an old man. They call the drink Buransh in the local language. It was a tasty, and sour version of Roohafza. I asked him if I could take some of his pictures along with the valley (something I don’t ask people often, as I feel it makes them uncomfortable). He said fine, and I took some photographs. There was some uneasiness on his face, so I finished fast. A few of the pictures came out good, seeing them he was a bit satisfied with his participation in the activity. I then continued walking the path. And finally, after a climb of around 2.5 hrs, I reached Deoria Taal.
The lake is situated in the center of a meadow (a clearing with only grass). It’s beautiful for the eye-level view it offers and due to the reflections of the sky and mountains. I sat near the Lake for some time and took some photographs. At the far end of the lake, I could see a cormorant sitting and drying itself and there was a perfect reflection of it in the lake, then after some time it took the dip in the water. Several groups of tourists came in and returned and also a few Shepherds from Saari came to the meadows for foraging buffaloes.
As the sun faded away, it began to become dark and cold near the water. I then went back to a campsite, situated in the middle of the mountain forest. It was a good resting place for the night.
From the Shepherds I got contact of a guide whom I could go along with on the next day’s trek. It was a long 15 km jungle trek, with no habitation in between. Thus one may need a guide for directions. I was a bit concerned about going with the guide, as I was looking for solitude and felt it might take that away, but if I went solo and entered the wrong trail, then I would have no other option than to return to the starting point before night sets in. After these to- and- fro thoughts about safety and solitude, I decided to go along with the guide.
Day 2: Jungle trail from Deoria tal to Chopta
Cloudy weather – Fog and Drizzle
In the morning around 7:30 am, I was ready to start with the trail. The weather was cloudy, and it might start to rain in a few hours. I was greeted by the guide (Manoj). He was quite fit, and our temperament matched, we both were like keeping with ourselves and valued solitude. I shared with him my last night’s dilemma about going along with a guide or not, and asked him if I could lead the trail. He agreed to it. We then discussed the map and began to walk. The trail climbed up towards a hilltop, Manoj had good knowledge of vegetation, and he showed me different varieties of oak trees that grow at different altitudes. All these trees were broadleaf and had a dense look. We soon got into clearings where the fog clouded us. I have always liked such weather for the fogginess and moistness it brings. The small droplets on the face felt very refreshing. We soon reached the top of the local hill (Jhandi top). There we took a break for some time, and we could see two groups of travelers coming towards us. They too joined us on top. While they took a rest, we started our journey ahead. We were now on a trail that passes through dense jungle with several climbs up and down. It started to drizzle. The forest was silent, with only the sounds of rain. After some time, the rain increased in intensity, and I had to wear a raincoat. Manoj had an umbrella to cover himself.
Wilderness
We had been moving for quite some time now, and Manoj came across a porcupine quill, that the porcupine shaded before. It was sharp at the ends, and hollow from inside. It was my first hand experience of porcupine quill and it was quite amusing. Then we came across a tree where there were scratch marks made by a bear. They were claw marks, probably the bear was rubbing himself against the tree. Then we came across Himalayan mushrooms which were beautiful by their design but were poisonous. Manoj suggested that one way to identify the poisonous variety is that there are very small insects moving over them. I looked and there were insects.
We then moved ahead, and gradually we switched places, as he could move faster. The rain has made the soil muddy. I could see footprints of some buffaloes and deer on the way. I was watching them that at one point I came across an odd footprint. It was a large pugmark, much greater than that of a dog. I soon realised it was a leopard, as tigers were not there. The pugmark was going in the same direction that we had been moving, and they were fresh, as they were in the mud formed by rain. I looked around and saw nothing. Then I moved ahead and met Manoj. He was also of the view that it might be a leopard. Then we again got back on the trail and reached a clearing. There, the forest department had built a stone bund to check erosion, it was an impressive structure, amid the beautiful landscape. We could see mountains in the front, forests to our right and left, and a hill to our back. The clearing over which we were standing was completely green with grass.
Manoj started with the trail, I followed him later on with a break. Again we were in the jungle, the mud had now started to deepen further due to the rain. I again came across the same pugmark on the trail. It was much clearer now, it was of a leopard. This means that the leopard had moved on the same trail as we had been moving for at least 20 minutes ( approximate time between two pugmarks). And it must have done it some time before as the mud has formed in the rain, which had started before an hour or so. Thus we were essentially following a leopard which might be following buffalo or sheep (as their footprints were also in the mud). I took the pugmark photograph. I walked ahead and met Manoj who was waiting ahead. I showed him the picture and now he also confirmed that it was a leopard which might be interested in the sheep. The prospect that there could be a leopard sighting in the jungle was both exciting and alerting. We both moved together afterward ( this happened subconsciously).
After a walk of half an hour, we reached Rohini Bugyal. Bugyal are meadows in the local language. We rested under a tree near a small stream of water. We had food (which we packed before leaving for the trail) and water from the stream. It was cold water but tasted good. All this while it rained continuously, and it looked beautiful. After the break, as we were about to leave the other two groups also joined us at the same place for the break, and appeared to be unaware of the leopard trail, we also didn’t bother them with the detail.
Waterfall
We started our trek again and entered the forest. The forest looked dense and beautiful. The trees were big, with rain the leaves looked fresh, and the tree roots were extending all over the place. We hiked for around 1 hour and could see no more of the leopard, our trail probably separated from the Bugyal.
From here on, a path climbed down steeply. After climbing down for half an hour or so we reached a bridge over Akshakamini river. It was a very serene place, with sounds of flowing water, and falling rain. I had been completely drenched by now, water had seeped inside the raincoat, and it had begun to feel cold. I saw Manoj he had an umbrella, and seemed to be better off, as the rain was not coming in direct contact with his body, while on the raincoat, the water flowing over the raincoat also had some chilling effect. We rested there for half an hour, it was a very rich place for nature’s experience, and I wanted to spend as much time immersing in it, as possible. But then it began to feel much colder inside, and now I was wishing for some warm clothes.
So we got back on the trek, the forest had now begun to clear up and become less dense. There was a big tree which had fallen on the path, blocking it. Thus, Manoj took a shortcut, which was a steep climb up the hill. Theron, we got on our original path. Finally, by 3:30 pm we reached the road to Chopta, 1 km walk from here will lead to the settlement.
This was the end of our path. Manoj set out to return to Saari by road, while I went towards Chopta, which is a very small settlement of 20-30 people I assume. The trek from Chandrashila and Tungnath starts from here.
The night
Soon after reaching Chopta, I changed my wet clothes in a wooden hut. It felt good in warm clothes. I had tea and some food. As it was still raining, I decided to stay in the hut itself. It was an overpriced hut, with basic facilities. There are a few things about Chopta. First, it’s famous as mini Switzerland, maybe due to the mountains it’s surrounded by. Second, it has a beautiful sunset. Third it comes under the forest department, so for ecological reasons, they have restricted the development of the settlement, so basically there are no ATMs, no power supply (only solar), and an almost nonexistent network. The only place, that had a good network was below a solar panel. The first two things I couldn’t see due to cloudy weather. The third thing was real for me. I was standing below the solar panel, making online payments to the hut owner, and sending messages to my family and friends about my whereabouts.
It became night soon, I was in the hut. There was only one set of windows, I had to keep them open for ventilation. Then the hut was shared by other beings as well. One was an old spider on the wall adjacent to the washroom. Then there were flies that I could see mating inside the room, It was probably a good time for them to populate. I made sure all were far away from my bed, and I slept. I planned to leave around 2:30 a.m. for the Chandrashila trek so that I could watch the sunrise from the top. But given, if the rain stops !
At 2 p.m., I woke up with an alarm. It was still raining, I could hear the sounds of rain falling over the hut, and it was a very calming experience. But as it was raining, I slept. After a few hours, I woke up again, It was still dark outside the window, and the rain sounds had intensified. It was beautiful and frightening at the same time. I could hear the sounds of water flowing outside the hut, I tried to recall, but couldn’t remember any rivulet earlier. Maybe it was no longer safe, inside the hut. I saw the spider, it was still there with a slight change in position. It was comforting to see that it hadn’t run away yet. I kept listening to the sounds for some time, then I woke up and got ready for the trek. As it was raining, I realised I needed an umbrella to do the trek, as the raincoat wasn’t enough, and I had the last set of warm clothes left to do the trek. I waited for the day to break, bought an umbrella, and left for the trek around 7:30 a.m. I could see small streams that had actually come up in the night.
Day 3: Tungnath – Chandrashila trek
One way, Tungnath is a 5-6 km trek, followed by 1 km more for the Chandrashila peak. Tungnath is among the highest Shiva temples, while Chandrashila is at an altitude of approx 3600 m and its famous for the views it offers. On my way to Tungnath, it rained continuously, and the umbrella was working fine. There were many other pilgrims also, who were doing the trek in raincoats. After around 2 hrs I reached Tungnath. It was a beautiful Shiva temple, but the rains had made it so cold, that it felt difficult to stand barefoot in the temple. After offering my part of the prayers, I left for Chandrashila. I was considering leaving Chandrashila as the weather wasn’t good, and no views could be seen in such weather. But I felt like trying it, as I had come for a trek, and if the weather worsened, I could return midway. After about 45 mins of steep climbing, I reached Chandrashila top, holding an umbrella. The rain has reduced a bit, but the winds were strong, so I had to close the umbrella. The view from the top was grand, one can look in all directions. There were a few small Shiva temples and the stones kept one over another. I sat there for half an hour trying to absorb the view as much as possible. Few distant peaks appeared here and there out of the fog, but overall, they were behind the curtains of cloud. I could see Chaukhamba Peak and a few more. A Himalayan Griffon vulture was also somewhere down the peak, it flew away extending its big wings, and that was amazing. I couldn’t use the handheld camera due to the rain, but I took several pictures from the mobile. Then I sat there still for a few minutes, just witnessing it all, and no clear thoughts. It was like getting lost in it (a bit). Then I felt cold again, so it was time for me to leave.
There were other travelers also, who reached the peak. A few of them climbed for the first time to such height. They climbed up slowly and descended slowly, braving against the odds of rain, wind and slippery slopes. For, if the climb is difficult, one can keep going slowly one step at a time, and will reach the places!
I too climbed down back from Chandrashila to Chopta by about 3 pm. I packed my bags, had food, and was about to leave when the weather suddenly cleared up. All the surrounding peaks suddenly became visible, the sun came up bright, and mares became uncontrollable and started running on the meadows in excitement. It was surprising, how suddenly the weather changed. I stayed there till sunset. Finally, I had a view of much famed Chopta Sunset !
Curious Little 